Quiksilver Pro Forecast :: Tues 25th September

A modest NW wind swell on the opening day with increasing confidence in a modest mid period swell for the end of the weekend and positive signs of a powerful NW swell for the beginning of next week.

Fri 28th / Sat 29th

Improving forecast confidence in NW wind swell from the remnants of the current storm with increasingly positive outlook for local winds.

The large low pressure system currently centred over the UK continues to send wind swell to Hossegor with the last remnants of that potentially arriving on Friday. The latest forecast is for 5ft@9 seconds in the morning giving chest to head high waves on the opening morning dropping through the day and into the weekend. However the close proximity of the storm means the slightest change in it’s position could mean much reduced size, or continuation of the recent onshore winds. Since yesterday we’ve seen improving forecast confidence in both the swell and potentially light local winds leaving the possibility of contestable conditions on the opening morning.

Current low pressure system sending wind swell towards France but creating tricky local winds.

Sun 30th / Mon 1st

Good confidence in a smaller, mid period NW swell and chest to head high+ surf.

A small low pressure system developing over Iceland is showing on all the major weather agency forecasts and could send a modest mid period swell for Sunday and on into monday. Since yesterday’s update all the major Meteorological agencies are now seeing a very similar scenario for this storm with swell size in the 4.5ft@12 seconds range from the NW giving chest to head high+ surf on the right banks and with that direction favourable for most locations. Local winds look light at this stage. Swell decreases into monday dropping into the waist to chest region by the afternoon.

Tues 2nd / Wed 3rd / Thurs 4th

Increasing confidence in a large 980mb North Atlantic low pressure system with a good fetch and position for solid NW swell with reasonable local winds.

The latest models are showing a developing low pressure system that’s forecast to form on the 28th and develop a broad fetch in the Northern Atlantic over the weekend. In this scenario Hossegor sees a mid to large sized long period swell (perhaps 7ft@14 seconds) from the North West arriving late on monday and running on into wednesday. Swell in this range creating waves to double overhead on the sets on banks that can hold it. With major weather agencies all forecasting this storm system there’s some confidence in it’s development and the arrival of this swell – although quite a range of potential size variation at this range. With high pressure forecast to sit away from the coast there’s some potential for a weak onshore airflow so possible onshore winds during the period.