– Good Pulse of swell on Sunday and into Monday with light winds giving head high+ waves.
– Large swell arriving on Tuesday with light winds initially.
– Swell holding into Wednesday but 40% risk of onshore winds, potentially strong.
– Swell building again into Thursday with dropping period but still with a risk of onshore conditions.
– This large storm continuing to send swell right on into next weekend dropping on Saturday.
Dying wind swell giving waist to chest high waves and possible onshore afternoon winds as the new swell starts to build in the afternoon.
The final remains of todays swell die out tomorrow with about 2ft@9 seconds of swell mixing with a tiny northerly wind swell from overnight cross shore winds. The local wind looks like it’ll come onshore in the afternoon as the new swell starts to fill in.
Sun 30th / Mon 1st
A small storm sending a nice pulse of mid period swell in the 5ft@12 second range from the NW with light local winds creating overhead surf.
A storm currently passing beneath Iceland (and confirmed with Satellite data) means we can have high confidence in a new swell arriving later on Saturday and peaking on Sunday morning. The swell is forecast to top out around 5ft@12 seconds giving surf heights exceeding our opening round one in the head high+ range and large on the better sets. With high pressure in control winds should remain light, although sunny skies would mean the normal tendency to onshore sea breeze in the afternoon. The swell drops on monday but still giving chest to head high potential in the morning and with the first long period fore runners of the next swell starting to show in the afternoon.
Tues 2nd / Wed 3rd / Thurs 4th / Fri 5th
Large North Atlantic low sending longer period NW swell for a prolonged period next week. Potential for large surf from swell in the 6ft@13seconds range with period dropping and size increasing on Thursday but still very mixed forecasts for winds from Wednesday onwards with the risk of onshore conditions into Friday.
Still only modest change from the last update. We look to have a day of relatively light local winds and 6ft@13-14seconds swell on Tuesday. Wednesday sees slightly dropping size to start with a 40%+ chance of brisk onshore winds all day from the latest model runs. Swell builds in size later in Wednesday and into Thursday with a lower period with numbers in the 7-10ft@11 seconds range. These numbers move the swell into the range seen on recent La Graviere stand out swells (eg. August 15-16th) with that slightly lower period potentially improving conditions. Albeit we’re still looking at a very mixed wind forecast that could mean, at worst, strong onshore conditions throughout this time.